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Selected Climbs in the Cascades Vol 1, 2nd Edition

Selected Climbs in the Cascades Vol 1, 2nd Edition


Author: Jim Nelson
Edited by: Peter Potterfield

320 Pages, 978-0-89886-767-1
Mountaineers Books 04/15/2003
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For ambitious newbies and hardcore climbers alike, this revised guide includes 12 new climbs in the Cascades.

* Details more than 75 of the most popular climbs in the Cascades
* 200 black and white photographs, half with route overlays
* Thirty maps

Fun and challenging, this edition contains a mix of walk-ups, snow climbs, scrambles, wilderness alpine routes, hard rock climbs, ice climbs, and strenuous mixed climbs. The idea of a qualitative climbing guide-one that rates climbs by appeal, not by difficulty or type of climbing, was new to the Cascades when Selected Climbs in the Cascades was first published, and climbers loved it.
eRoute
South Early Winters Spire (PDF):
The highest peak in the Liberty Bell group, combining ease of approach, a long season, and a variety of interesting climbing. 3 Routes, 5 Pages.
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Ingalls Peak (PDF):
Grade II. 4-8 hours one-way, car-to-summit. This sunny, south-facing ridge rises above a lunarlike basin of weird red rock. 1 Route, 4 pages
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Colchuck Peak (PDF):
The Colchuck Glacier is an interesting and accessible snow-and-ice climb that changes dramatically as the season progresses. The route is particularly enjoyable early in the year, because summer comes to this area a few weeks ahead of climbing areas in the North Cascades. 2 Routes, 2 Pages
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El Dorado Peak (PDF):
Eldorado Peak’s dramatic summit—a Himalayan-like knife-edge of snow—makes an alluring destination for alpine climbers. The route recommended here is a relatively straightforward glacier climb reached by steep, strenuous approaches. 1 Route, 3 Pages.
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Disappointment Cleaver (PDF):
This route is characterized by the moderate Muir Snowfield to the 10,000-foot level (known as Camp Muir), where there is a guide hut, a ranger station, a public shelter, and outhouse facilities. 1 Route, 3 Pages.
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Emmons Glacier (PDF):
Probably the least-technical route on Mount Rainier, the Emmons Glacier offers the majesty and beauty of sunrise from high on the mountain while calling for only straightforward glacier-climbing skills and good judgment. 1 Route, 2 Pages.
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Liberty Bell (PDF):
Ease of access combined with rich alpine ambience make this area unique as a rock climbing destination. No mountain in the area boasts more or better routes than Liberty Bell. 1 Route, 2 Pages.
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Little Tahoma (PDF):
An ascent up Little Tahoma’s standard route is relatively straightforward and simple. Little Tahoma is actually the remains of a once larger and higher Mount Rainier, therefore its rock is volcanic, loose, and crumbly. 1 Route, 3 Pages.
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Mount Baker (PDF):
Its high altitude and position far west of the Cascades crest—Baker is only 35 miles from tidewater—place it to receive the full wet blast of winter storms, feeding its dozen glaciers. 1 Route, 3 Pages
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Unicorn Peak (PDF):
Standing slightly off and to the east from its companion Tatoosh Range peaks, Unicorn Peak shows a striking profile when viewed from the Castle or Pinnacle Pea. The stark watchtower formation or “horn of the unicorn” is an appealing summit tower of this nearly 7,000-foot peak. 1 Route, 2 Pages.
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Mt Hood (PDF):
Most climbers come to Mount Hood for the relatively straightforward ascent of the normal route, a few for the more remotely situated or technically challenging climbs elsewhere on the peak. But by any route, Mount Hood offers an outstanding mountaineering experience. 1 Route, 4 Pages.
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Mount Shuksan (PDF):
The massive and complex Mount Shuksan—whose handsome profile from Picture Lake has become a frequent photographic cliché—offers no less than five rugged faces, with four of them commonly climbed. 1 Route, 3 Pages.
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Prusik Peak (PDF):
For an alpine region, this area is one of the driest in the state. Not only does the Stuart Range lie east of the Cascades crest, Prusik Peak itself lies farther east still. The fact that Prusik Peak is shielded from storm fronts, coupled with the steepness of its South Face, means that it is frequently the first of the high peaks to come into climbing condition. 1 Route, 3 Pages.
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Sahale Peak (PDF):
Sahale Peak from the Quien Sabe Glacier side is a particularly varied climb with a genuine wilderness feel, more alpine than the route up Sahale Arm from Cascade Pass. Camps here—particularly high camps—are something to savor. 1 Route, 2 Pages.
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The Tooth (PDF):
With its proximity to Interstate 90 and Seattle population centers, the Tooth is a good conditioning climb, and an authentic alternative for more ambitious climbing when time is limited. 1 Route, 3 Pages.
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