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Have Accidents, Gain Wisdom

For 50 years, the Alpine Clubs of the United States and Canada have been compiling climbing accident reports and publishing them annually. The objective is to learn from the mistakes of others. Here are a few of the lessons that come out of this year's reports:

* Climbers are advised to collect as much information about their intended route as possible before setting out to ensure that they have the skills and equipment to finish the route. The information in a guidebook is not sufficient in many cases. Other information sources include alpine journals, other climbers, park wardens/rangers, and even the internet.

* All climbers should remember that rescuers put their lives at risk each time they respond to a call for help from a mountain-side.

* Test all holds on any rock that has cracks or evidence of loose rocks – no matter what the size.

* Be cautious of gaining altitude too quickly.

* Never underestimate chance: use ropes and equipment properly when climbing.

* No matter what level of hike you are on, bring sufficient clothing for an overnight stay.

* Consider carefully before exceeding your abilities and physical condition.

* Ultimately, in the immortal words of Don Whillans, “The mountain will always be there; the trick is to make sure you’re still there, too.”

If you have knowledge of a climbing accident, please report it to the Editors [of Accidents]. By doing so, you may become part of the process of preventing someone else from suffering the same mistake.

Adapted from Accidents in North American Mountaineering 2002 by the American Alpine Club and the Canadian Alpine Club.

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