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Skills Exercise: How to Dynamically
Move from Bad Holds
The Challenge We are not always strong enough or in the
right body position to securely grab onto holds and maintain control.
At these times, momentum-based dynamic movement is the preferred technique
in making further progress.
The Goal To move dynamically off of a poorly gripped hold to the next
hold.
The Equipment
Climbing shoes
Several handholds
Several footholds
The Setup Position several footholds near the ground. The handholds should
be placed so that there are both easy and difficult-to-grab handholds
on both sides of your body. At your midline, place a decent handhold
within reach above your head.
Good Hold/Bad Hold Exercise
Step onto the footholds in a comfortable stance and grab a good hold with your right hand and a poor hold with your left.
The idea is to move your right hand on the good hold up to the other hold above your head. Your left hand will remain on the bad hold during the movement.
Before you move your right hand, center your gravity over your feet.
Once centered, use your legs to push your hips up and toward the targeted hold.
As your hips start to slow from the upward momentum you have created, quickly move your right hand to the hold.
Be prepared to control your momentum as soon as you latch onto the desired hold.
Switch which hand you use for the good hold/bad hold setup and repeat the exercise.
Considerations Depending on the amount of balance you can maintain from weighting
your feet, and the distance to the targeted hold, the momentum from
you hips can range from a subtle shift in your hips (by pushing slightly
with your legs) to more dramatic movement initiated from your legs and
requiring you to pull with the good hold.
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